To British Columbia off-roaders, Whipsaw is an iconic name. For the southern half of the province, Whipsaw is where day-trippers cut their teeth on a multi-day overland expedition. The trail’s popularity grew in 2007 when it was one of Canada’s two trails named BF Goodrich’s Outstanding Trails.
The Four Wheel Drive Association of BC (4WDABC) annually holds its fall convention in Coalmont on the 2nd weekend in September. The goal is simple, run Whipsaw during the day and converse on the matters impacting the wheeling world in the evening. Along the Tulameen River is a serene meadow next to the Granite Creek campsite that we use annually. The property is owned by Ernie Rice, one of the originating families in this area. When you pay the camping fees, see if he’ll give you permission to visit his place; it’s literally a time capsule of vehicles that have worked the land throughout the century.
“This year, the meadow would provide the staging area for close to 54 trucks. Throughout Friday, different groups congregated together. Wes, of the Herd of Turtles, had his infamous “Lemonade Stand,” and there was one communal campfire. Ernie brought firewood when he stopped by, and the ring of chairs kept growing. Stories were exchanged between old friends, faces finally put to names, and new trail mates developed.”This year the meadow would provide the staging area for close to 54 trucks. Throughout Friday, different groups congregated together. Wes, of the Herd of Turtles, had his infamous “Lemonade Stand,” and there was one communal campfire. Ernie brought firewood when he stopped by, and the ring of chairs kept growing. Stories were exchanged between old friends, faces finally put to names, and new trail mates developed.
Plans were formulated for the next day’s adventure, groups selecting departure times and whether to enter through the Crowsnest or Coalmont. We opted to take the traditional route from Crowsnest; interestingly, if you park at the entrance, you can hike north to the Whipsaw Ecological reserve or attempt to make your way south to the old ghost town of Blackfoot.
Our group slowly grew as everyone arrived; airing down, hands were shaking, and we were off on our dusty eight-hour tour. We traversed the main FSR, my Honda Civic can make it about 18 km, but a good 4WD with clearance is required to safely make it through. Although I’ve run Whipsaw many times, the beauty of the location never ceases to amaze me.
Along the way, you’ll pass by Huff’s Mine, highlighted by its remaining core samples, then there is this hidden left turn that will bring you to an abandoned mine. Gazing into the adjacent stream there, you may be able to see little flakes of gold. At about 22 km, you’ll come across an old horse barn and an emergency shelter on the skids before ascending through the switchbacks.
Once in the high country, you will come upon Dick’s cabin, housed in the first of many beautiful meadows, a few rock enclaves offering you the opportunity to take some poser shots, or for the more adventurous, a 20+ km hiking trail that will lead you to Manning Park. Further along, the grounds are blanketed with Alpine flowers that lead to an oasis of Mountain views. After a few kilometres, you’ll find the most quizzical cow corral; its desolation will leave you scratching your head about its existence.
Mud bogging or going off the official route is severely discouraged and carries heavy fines. However, you are allowed to play in a few established places. One of the legal mud play areas can be found in front of the old trapper’s cabin. It’s an excellent spot to allow stragglers to catch up, explore the remains, take a few pictures, and have a mid-morning snack.
As you near the infamous Janzen Rock, you’ll find a rock outcropping that newer drivers may need spotting through. Then it’s time for a few squeals as first-timers attempt the fun 45-degree vertical rock climb; its difficulty depends on the weather, skill, and tire tread.
After several hours through some beautiful terrain, you’ll descend into the valley home to Wells Lake. If you get a picture right, the trucks drive on the water as they cross the shallow roadway. After you leave, you’ll wind your way towards Falcon Hill. Not as challenging now as it once was, a plaque on a tree tells the legend of a few guys who traversed the entire trail in 1979 in a Ford Falcon, with only 33-in studded snow tires as their aid.
For me, wheeling is more about the overland expedition style than obstacles, so I usually don’t opt to take the hard line. However, I always take on the ledge after Falcon Hill; I curse it every time as I still need at least two runs. However, on occasion, I get to give a tug to the vehicle behind me, which I always smile at!
The trail’s difficulty vastly changes throughout the yearly weather conditions; I’ve wheeled it in dry, wet, snowy, and very muddy conditions. The “Mud Pit” is a drainage depression just before a steep muddy climb. Depending on the weather and traffic, it can be a small water splash or a thick momentum-killing mud bog. In its worst condition, I’ve seen people spend hours trying to winch, shovel, or other creative ways to pull themselves up to the crest of the hill.
We continued on and neared Lodestone Lake. Unfortunately, the meadows here have taken a lot of abuse from those who don’t follow the Tread Lightly creed. This is unfortunate, not only because it can give off-roaders a lousy name, but it mars the pristine beauty of why I’m here in the first place. The ecosystem is highly fragile in these areas; one run through the meadow can take years to recover.
Beyond the lake, the road forks, and to the right is an old cabin etched with the memories of over 80 years. It’s mesmerizing to look at the dates and imagine all the laughs. Past that, the trail will lead you to the top of Lodestone Peak, an amazing 360-degree view of the mountain peaks as far as the eye can see.
Descending back down, you’ll find the active Coal mine and many other hidden gems along the road that is part of Blakeburn, the sight of BC’s 5th worst mining disaster. We finished the descent back to basecamp, passing by what little remains of Granite City, once regarded as one of BC’s most prominent cities during the gold rush. At its peak, it housed over 200 buildings on two main streets.
Back at camp, it was time to visit Wes’s Lemonade stand and spend the evening catching up. The Cruiser crew was still MIA, well past their return time. Word finally got back that Kim (president of the 4WDABC) had snapped pieces of his suspension, and they were limping their way back with a few support vehicles. Apparently, you can wheel Whipsaw with 12 straps holding a truck together, but not without some good-natured harassment at the end. With that, we put another annual Whipsaw trip in the books, one of BC’s top adventures.
Trix's Trax 